Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics
1. Edition April 2021
720 Pages, Hardcover
Wiley & Sons Ltd
ISBN:
978-1-119-65482-7
John Wiley & Sons
Further versions
Activity in the arena of surface chemistry and adhesion aspects in cosmetics is substantial, but the information is scattered in many diverse publications media and no book exists which discusses surface chemistry and adhesion in cosmetics in unified manner.
This book containing 15 chapters written by eminent researchers from academia and industry is divided into three parts: Part 1: General Topics; Part 2: Surface Chemistry Aspects; and Part 3: Wetting and Adhesion Aspects. The topics covered include: Lip biophysical properties and characterization; use of advanced silicone materials in long-lasting cosmetics; non-aqueous dispersions of acrylate copolymers in lipsticks; cosmetic oils in Lipstick structure; chemical structure of the hair surface, surface forces and interactions; AFM for hair surface characterization; application of AFM in characterizing hair, skin and cosmetic deposition; SIMS as a surface analysis method for hair, skin and cosmetics; surface tensiometry approach to characterize cosmetic products; spreading of hairsprays on hair; color transfer from long-wear face foundation products; interaction of polyelectrolytes and surfactants on hair surfaces; cosmetic adhesion to facial skin; and adhesion aspects in semi-permanent mascara; lipstick adhesion measurement.
Preface xxi
Part 1: General Topics 1
1 Lip Biophysical Properties and Characterization Methods for Long-Wear Lipsticks 3
Rebecca Barresi and I-Chien Liao
1.1 Introduction 4
1.2 Overview of Lip Anatomy & Lip Surface Properties 8
1.3 In Vitro Evaluation Methods for Lipsticks 17
1.4 Relation of In Vitro Analysis with Consumer Sensory Testing 25
1.5 Summary 28
2 Effect of Cosmetic Oils on Lipstick Structure and Its Deposit 35
Momoko Suzumeji Shimizu, Yuta Nomura and Hy Si Bui
2.1 Introduction 35
2.2 Types of Natural Waxes, Their Physical Properties and Potential Applications 38
2.3 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures 41
2.4 Study on Model Oil-Wax System Containing Polyethylene Wax 47
2.5 Results and Discussion 50
2.6 Summary 67
3 UV Curing of Nail Gels by Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Fluorescent (FL) Light Sources 73
Michael J. Dvorchak and Melanie L. Clouser
3.1 Introduction 73
3.2 UV Cure Chemistry 74
3.3 UV Cure Light Sources: Gallium-Doped Low-Wattage Long Wavelength Fluorescent (FL) Bulbs and Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) 76
3.4 UV Cure Oxygen Inhibition Issues 80
3.5 Special Considerations for the Use of UV Nail Gel Technology Due to Oxygen Inhibition 81
3.6 How to Formulate a UV-A Cure Nail Gel 85
3.7 Formulation of UV Nail Gels with 100% Solids UV Cure Oligomers and Monomers 89
3.8 Human Nail Mechanical and Surface Free Energy Properties 92
3.9 Adhesion of UV Nail Gel to the Human Nail Plate 97
3.10 Removal of the UV Nail Gel From the Human Nail Plate 99
3.11 Alternative Uses of UV Cured Nail Gels as a Solution to Remedy Onychomycosis (Toenail Fungus) 99
3.12 UV Cured Nail Gel Safety 103
3.13 Prospects on UV Nail Gels 104
3.14 Summary 105
4 Rheological Properties Influence Tackiness, Application and Performance of Nail Polish/Lacquer Formulations 109
Leidy Nallely Jimenez, Carina D. V. Martínez Narváez, Chenxian Xu, Samantha Bacchi and Vivek Sharma
4.1 Introduction 110
4.2 Typical Ingredients of a Nail Polish Formulation 113
4.3 Rheological Response of Nail Polishes: Background 116
4.4 Methods for Characterizing Flow Behavior and Applicationto Nail Polishes 120
4.5 Materials: Ingredients of the Twelve Nail Polishes 122
4.6 Results and Discussion 123
4.7 Summary and Conclusions 141
5 Use of Advanced Silicone Materials in Long-Lasting Cosmetics 151
Amar B. Pawar and Benjamin Falk
5.1 Introduction 151
5.2 Adhesion to Skin 152
5.3 Formulation Strategies for Long-Lasting Cosmetics 157
5.4 Advanced Silicone Materials for Long-Wear Cosmetics 160
5.5 Summary and Prospective Film-Formers for Long-Wear
Part 2: Surface Science Aspects 183
6 Advances in the Chemical Structure of the Hair Surface, Surface Forces and Interactions 185
Gustavo S. Luengo and Andrew J. Greaves
6.1 Introduction 185
6.2 Structure of Hair and the Outermost Surface 187
6.3 Chemical and Physical Modifications of the Hair Surface 187
6.4 Local Physico-Chemical Understanding of the Hair Surface 197
6.5 Macroscopic Understanding of the Chemical Nature of the Hair Surface 203
6.6 Impact of the Hair Chemical Nature on Sensorial and Consumer Benefits 207
6.7 Prospects 208
6.8 Summary 208
7 AFM for Hair Surface Characterisation 215
Steven Breakspear, Bernd Noecker and Crisan Popescu
7.1 Hair Structure 215
7.2 Elements of AFM 217
7.3 The Use of AFM to Characterize the Hair Surface/Cuticle 227
7.4 Cosmetic Treatment (e.g. Bleaching) as Shown by AFM 237
7.5 Summary 240
8 Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) as a Surface Characterization Tool for Hair, Skin, and Cosmetic Deposition 245
Norbert Biderman and Hy Si Bui
8.1 Introduction 245
8.2 Atomic Force Microscopy Compared to Other Microscopy Techniques 246
8.3 The Principles of Atomic Force Microscopy 247
8.4 A Brief History of Hair Surface Investigation via Atomic Force Microscopy 249
8.5 Lateral Force Microscopy (LFM) of the Hair Surface 249
8.6 Adhesion at the Nanoscale via AFM 251
8.7 Elastic Modulus Measurement via AFM 254
8.8 Hair Studies via AFM 256
8.8.1 Nanomechanical Properties of the Hair Surface 256
8.9 Skin Studies via AFM 265
8.10 Summary and Prospects 274
9 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry as a Surface Analysis Method for Hair, Skin, and Cosmetics 279
Norbert Biderman
9.1 Introduction 279
9.2 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (SIMS) 280
9.3 Studying the Skin via TOF-SIMS 290
9.4 Studying the Hair Via TOF-SIMS 295
9.5 Future Prospects 305
Part 3: Wetting and Adhesion Aspects 309
10 Surface Tensiometry Approach to Characterize Cosmetic Products in the Beauty Sector 311
Davide Rossi and Nicola Realdon
10.1 Introduction 312
10.2 Peels 313
10.3 Face Masks 316
10.4 Serums 325
10.5 Eye Contour Creams 327
10.6 Mascara 329
10.7 Eyeshadows 334
10.8 Lipsticks 336
10.9 Foundation 339
10.10 Anti-Aging Formulations 340
10.11 Summary 348
11 Spreading of Hairsprays on Hair 353
Yashavanth Kamath and Xuemin Chen
11.1 Introduction 353
11.2 Background on Interaction of Liquid Droplets with Fibers 354
11.3 Materials and Experimental Methods 359
11.4 Results and Discussion 361
11.5 General Observations on the Behavior of Holding Spray on Hair 370
11.6 Shine Spray on One Bleached Hair Fiber 373
11.7 Summary 375
12 Quantification of the Color Transfer from Long-Wear Face Foundation Products: The Relevance of Wettability 379
Joseph V. Badami and Hy Si Bui
12.1 Introduction 380
12.2 Experiments 381
12.3 Results and Discussion 384
12.4 Summary and Perspectives 396
13 Interaction of Polyelectrolytes and Surfactants on Hair Surfaces. Deposits and their Characterization 401
Gustavo S. Luengo, Eduardo Guzman, Laura Fernández-Peña, Fabien Leonforte, Francisco Ortega and Ramon G. Rubio
13.1 Introduction 402
13.2 Hair Structure and Its External Surface 403
13.3 Experimental Approaches for the Evaluation of the Deposition of Polyelectrolyte-Surfactant Systems onto Model Surfaces 413
13.4 Theoretical Modelling of Polyelectrolyte-Surfactant Mixtures 430
13.5 Prospects 441
13.6 Summary 441
14 Adhesion Aspect and Film-Forming Properties of Hydrocarbon Polymers-Based Lipsticks 451
Julien Portal, Xavier Schultze, Simon Taupin, Mireille Arnaud-Roux, Jerome Bonnard, Gregoire Naudin, Marc Hely, Hy Bui and Norbert Biderman
14.1 Introduction 452
14.2 Synthesis and Characterization of the Model Oil Compatible Polymers Dispersions 456
14.3 NADs as Film-Formers for Long-Wear, Non-Transfer Lipstick 476
14.4 Summary and Prospects 480
15 Factors Enhancing Adhesion of Color Cosmetic Products to Skin: The Role of Pigments and Fillers 487
Hubert Lam
15.1 Introduction 488
15.2 Overview of Pigments: Basic Physicochemical Considerations in Long-Wear Color Cosmetics 488
15.3 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Long-Wear Color Cosmetics 510
15.4 Summary and Prospects 534
16 Factors Affecting Cosmetics Adhesion to Facial Skin 543
Zhi Li and Hy Si Bui
16.1 Introduction 543
16.2 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Skin Substrate Properties 544
16.3 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Formulation Components 549
16.4 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Combination of Film-Formers and Emulsifiers 573
16.5 Summary and Prospects 580
17 Adhesion Aspect in Semi-Permanent Mascara 585
Christopher Pang and Hy Si Bui
17.1 Introduction 585
17.2 Structure of Eyelash and Eye Lid: An Overview 587
17.3 Types of Mascaras 589
17.4 Components in Mascara Formulations 593
17.5 Long-Wear Mascaras 596
17.6 Evaluation Methods for Long-Wear Mascara 598
17.7 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Mascara on an Eyelash 604
17.8 Removability of Mascara 624
17.9 Summary and Prospects 628
18 Lipstick Adhesion Measurement 635
Caroline Richard
18.1 Introduction 635
18.2 Definition of Adhesion 641
18.3 Sensory Metrology: Subjective Methods 643
18.4 Mechanical Tests: Objective Methods 649
18.5 Correlation Between Sensory and Instrumental Tests 656
18.6 Summary 659
Acknowledgments 659
References 659
Index 663
Part 1: General Topics 1
1 Lip Biophysical Properties and Characterization Methods for Long-Wear Lipsticks 3
Rebecca Barresi and I-Chien Liao
1.1 Introduction 4
1.2 Overview of Lip Anatomy & Lip Surface Properties 8
1.3 In Vitro Evaluation Methods for Lipsticks 17
1.4 Relation of In Vitro Analysis with Consumer Sensory Testing 25
1.5 Summary 28
2 Effect of Cosmetic Oils on Lipstick Structure and Its Deposit 35
Momoko Suzumeji Shimizu, Yuta Nomura and Hy Si Bui
2.1 Introduction 35
2.2 Types of Natural Waxes, Their Physical Properties and Potential Applications 38
2.3 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures 41
2.4 Study on Model Oil-Wax System Containing Polyethylene Wax 47
2.5 Results and Discussion 50
2.6 Summary 67
3 UV Curing of Nail Gels by Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Fluorescent (FL) Light Sources 73
Michael J. Dvorchak and Melanie L. Clouser
3.1 Introduction 73
3.2 UV Cure Chemistry 74
3.3 UV Cure Light Sources: Gallium-Doped Low-Wattage Long Wavelength Fluorescent (FL) Bulbs and Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) 76
3.4 UV Cure Oxygen Inhibition Issues 80
3.5 Special Considerations for the Use of UV Nail Gel Technology Due to Oxygen Inhibition 81
3.6 How to Formulate a UV-A Cure Nail Gel 85
3.7 Formulation of UV Nail Gels with 100% Solids UV Cure Oligomers and Monomers 89
3.8 Human Nail Mechanical and Surface Free Energy Properties 92
3.9 Adhesion of UV Nail Gel to the Human Nail Plate 97
3.10 Removal of the UV Nail Gel From the Human Nail Plate 99
3.11 Alternative Uses of UV Cured Nail Gels as a Solution to Remedy Onychomycosis (Toenail Fungus) 99
3.12 UV Cured Nail Gel Safety 103
3.13 Prospects on UV Nail Gels 104
3.14 Summary 105
4 Rheological Properties Influence Tackiness, Application and Performance of Nail Polish/Lacquer Formulations 109
Leidy Nallely Jimenez, Carina D. V. Martínez Narváez, Chenxian Xu, Samantha Bacchi and Vivek Sharma
4.1 Introduction 110
4.2 Typical Ingredients of a Nail Polish Formulation 113
4.3 Rheological Response of Nail Polishes: Background 116
4.4 Methods for Characterizing Flow Behavior and Applicationto Nail Polishes 120
4.5 Materials: Ingredients of the Twelve Nail Polishes 122
4.6 Results and Discussion 123
4.7 Summary and Conclusions 141
5 Use of Advanced Silicone Materials in Long-Lasting Cosmetics 151
Amar B. Pawar and Benjamin Falk
5.1 Introduction 151
5.2 Adhesion to Skin 152
5.3 Formulation Strategies for Long-Lasting Cosmetics 157
5.4 Advanced Silicone Materials for Long-Wear Cosmetics 160
5.5 Summary and Prospective Film-Formers for Long-Wear
Part 2: Surface Science Aspects 183
6 Advances in the Chemical Structure of the Hair Surface, Surface Forces and Interactions 185
Gustavo S. Luengo and Andrew J. Greaves
6.1 Introduction 185
6.2 Structure of Hair and the Outermost Surface 187
6.3 Chemical and Physical Modifications of the Hair Surface 187
6.4 Local Physico-Chemical Understanding of the Hair Surface 197
6.5 Macroscopic Understanding of the Chemical Nature of the Hair Surface 203
6.6 Impact of the Hair Chemical Nature on Sensorial and Consumer Benefits 207
6.7 Prospects 208
6.8 Summary 208
7 AFM for Hair Surface Characterisation 215
Steven Breakspear, Bernd Noecker and Crisan Popescu
7.1 Hair Structure 215
7.2 Elements of AFM 217
7.3 The Use of AFM to Characterize the Hair Surface/Cuticle 227
7.4 Cosmetic Treatment (e.g. Bleaching) as Shown by AFM 237
7.5 Summary 240
8 Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) as a Surface Characterization Tool for Hair, Skin, and Cosmetic Deposition 245
Norbert Biderman and Hy Si Bui
8.1 Introduction 245
8.2 Atomic Force Microscopy Compared to Other Microscopy Techniques 246
8.3 The Principles of Atomic Force Microscopy 247
8.4 A Brief History of Hair Surface Investigation via Atomic Force Microscopy 249
8.5 Lateral Force Microscopy (LFM) of the Hair Surface 249
8.6 Adhesion at the Nanoscale via AFM 251
8.7 Elastic Modulus Measurement via AFM 254
8.8 Hair Studies via AFM 256
8.8.1 Nanomechanical Properties of the Hair Surface 256
8.9 Skin Studies via AFM 265
8.10 Summary and Prospects 274
9 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry as a Surface Analysis Method for Hair, Skin, and Cosmetics 279
Norbert Biderman
9.1 Introduction 279
9.2 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (SIMS) 280
9.3 Studying the Skin via TOF-SIMS 290
9.4 Studying the Hair Via TOF-SIMS 295
9.5 Future Prospects 305
Part 3: Wetting and Adhesion Aspects 309
10 Surface Tensiometry Approach to Characterize Cosmetic Products in the Beauty Sector 311
Davide Rossi and Nicola Realdon
10.1 Introduction 312
10.2 Peels 313
10.3 Face Masks 316
10.4 Serums 325
10.5 Eye Contour Creams 327
10.6 Mascara 329
10.7 Eyeshadows 334
10.8 Lipsticks 336
10.9 Foundation 339
10.10 Anti-Aging Formulations 340
10.11 Summary 348
11 Spreading of Hairsprays on Hair 353
Yashavanth Kamath and Xuemin Chen
11.1 Introduction 353
11.2 Background on Interaction of Liquid Droplets with Fibers 354
11.3 Materials and Experimental Methods 359
11.4 Results and Discussion 361
11.5 General Observations on the Behavior of Holding Spray on Hair 370
11.6 Shine Spray on One Bleached Hair Fiber 373
11.7 Summary 375
12 Quantification of the Color Transfer from Long-Wear Face Foundation Products: The Relevance of Wettability 379
Joseph V. Badami and Hy Si Bui
12.1 Introduction 380
12.2 Experiments 381
12.3 Results and Discussion 384
12.4 Summary and Perspectives 396
13 Interaction of Polyelectrolytes and Surfactants on Hair Surfaces. Deposits and their Characterization 401
Gustavo S. Luengo, Eduardo Guzman, Laura Fernández-Peña, Fabien Leonforte, Francisco Ortega and Ramon G. Rubio
13.1 Introduction 402
13.2 Hair Structure and Its External Surface 403
13.3 Experimental Approaches for the Evaluation of the Deposition of Polyelectrolyte-Surfactant Systems onto Model Surfaces 413
13.4 Theoretical Modelling of Polyelectrolyte-Surfactant Mixtures 430
13.5 Prospects 441
13.6 Summary 441
14 Adhesion Aspect and Film-Forming Properties of Hydrocarbon Polymers-Based Lipsticks 451
Julien Portal, Xavier Schultze, Simon Taupin, Mireille Arnaud-Roux, Jerome Bonnard, Gregoire Naudin, Marc Hely, Hy Bui and Norbert Biderman
14.1 Introduction 452
14.2 Synthesis and Characterization of the Model Oil Compatible Polymers Dispersions 456
14.3 NADs as Film-Formers for Long-Wear, Non-Transfer Lipstick 476
14.4 Summary and Prospects 480
15 Factors Enhancing Adhesion of Color Cosmetic Products to Skin: The Role of Pigments and Fillers 487
Hubert Lam
15.1 Introduction 488
15.2 Overview of Pigments: Basic Physicochemical Considerations in Long-Wear Color Cosmetics 488
15.3 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Long-Wear Color Cosmetics 510
15.4 Summary and Prospects 534
16 Factors Affecting Cosmetics Adhesion to Facial Skin 543
Zhi Li and Hy Si Bui
16.1 Introduction 543
16.2 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Skin Substrate Properties 544
16.3 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Formulation Components 549
16.4 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Combination of Film-Formers and Emulsifiers 573
16.5 Summary and Prospects 580
17 Adhesion Aspect in Semi-Permanent Mascara 585
Christopher Pang and Hy Si Bui
17.1 Introduction 585
17.2 Structure of Eyelash and Eye Lid: An Overview 587
17.3 Types of Mascaras 589
17.4 Components in Mascara Formulations 593
17.5 Long-Wear Mascaras 596
17.6 Evaluation Methods for Long-Wear Mascara 598
17.7 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Mascara on an Eyelash 604
17.8 Removability of Mascara 624
17.9 Summary and Prospects 628
18 Lipstick Adhesion Measurement 635
Caroline Richard
18.1 Introduction 635
18.2 Definition of Adhesion 641
18.3 Sensory Metrology: Subjective Methods 643
18.4 Mechanical Tests: Objective Methods 649
18.5 Correlation Between Sensory and Instrumental Tests 656
18.6 Summary 659
Acknowledgments 659
References 659
Index 663
Kashmiri Lal Mittal was employed by the IBM Corporation from 1972 through 1993. Currently, he is teaching and consulting worldwide in the broad areas of adhesion as well as surface cleaning. He has received numerous awards and honors including the title of doctor honoris causa from Maria Curie-SkBodowska University, Lublin, Poland. He is the editor of more than 130 books dealing with adhesion measurement, adhesion of polymeric coatings, polymer surfaces, adhesive joints, adhesion promoters, thin films, polyimides, surface modification surface cleaning, and surfactants. Dr. Mittal is also the Founding Editor of the journal Reviews of Adhesion and Adhesives.
Hy Si Bui obtained his BS degrees in Physics, Mathematics and Polymer Science at the University of Southern Mississippi, MS in Colloids, Polymers & Surfaces, and PhD in Chemistry at Carnegie Mellon University. He was a Coating chemist at Bayer Corporation (Covestro) and was a recipient of the Presidential Green Chemistry Challenge Award in 2000 for Two-Component Waterborne Polyurethane Coatings. He has been at L'OREAL USA for 16 years and is currently a Sr. Principal Scientist and Sr. L'OREAL Expert in Cosmetic Application Domain. He has contributed to the launch of more than 45 cosmetic products to the market and obtained 108 granted US patents and 70 pre-granted patents.
Hy Si Bui obtained his BS degrees in Physics, Mathematics and Polymer Science at the University of Southern Mississippi, MS in Colloids, Polymers & Surfaces, and PhD in Chemistry at Carnegie Mellon University. He was a Coating chemist at Bayer Corporation (Covestro) and was a recipient of the Presidential Green Chemistry Challenge Award in 2000 for Two-Component Waterborne Polyurethane Coatings. He has been at L'OREAL USA for 16 years and is currently a Sr. Principal Scientist and Sr. L'OREAL Expert in Cosmetic Application Domain. He has contributed to the launch of more than 45 cosmetic products to the market and obtained 108 granted US patents and 70 pre-granted patents.
